A Weekend in Vienna: Day 1

On the dreary wet morning of Friday, September 17th, my study abroad group embarked on our first group excursion to Vienna – Wien if you want to be a local. I woke up at 6 am begrudgingly due to a late-night out with friends at O’Malley’s Pub – can’t miss Thursday night karaoke. I packed up my duffle and joined everyone downstairs for our trek down the infamous Mönchberg. With a 3-and-a-half-hour bus ride ahead of us I settled in with my journal ready to observe the Austrian countryside from the autobahn.

Along the way we stopped at a “truck stop” in Sankt Pölten – it wasn’t really a truck stop I just don’t know what they're called in Europe. Europe continues to shock me. Rather than having junk food and disgusting coffee-water they had a fancy cafeteria filled with freshly made pastries, a mini café, fresh-pressed juices, a large selection of alcoholic beverages and glassware to go with, warm soups, bread galore, sandwich and salad making stations, breakfast cereals, and made to order entrees such as wiener schnitzel and pasta. A little overwhelmed, I grabbed a good ole trusty croissant that cost a couple of euros.

Upon arriving in Vienna I was initially struck by the graffiti. Vienna was built from the center outwards. So when driving into the city you notice the architecture gradually age in character, so while the far city limits may be covered in modern graffiti the city center plays host to St. Stephan’s Cathedral – a Romanesque and Gothic Roman Catholic church that was completed in 1160. Throughout the drive towards our hotel I was rather overwhelmed by the architecture, so much to take in. Funny how it took a trip to Europe to pique my interest in architecture and art history despite being raised by a man with a B.A. in architecture and a woman with a B.A. in art.

Due to unforeseen construction, we got dropped off on the side of a busy road that hugs the Danube River. Immediately we took off, high tailing it to our hotel because we were already behind schedule. The walk wasn’t particularly strenuous but walking with a duffle bag on one side sure makes you feel like the leaning tower of Pisa. I hate to admit that I was left out of breath – ah asthma.

Once checked in it was revealed that all the rooms were ready except for mine – my roommate and I were the only double everybody else was in a triple. I dropped my bags off in a friend’s room for storage and set off to find a bite to eat for lunch. After wandering for a bit with a couple of friends we came across an Italian restaurant in a semi-sketchy alleyway. With a variety of pizza and pasta, I settled on the Bolognese which didn’t disappoint – and my mom makes a mean Bolognese, so the bar is set high. This was the first Italian restaurant that I’ve gone to in Europe, and I hate to report that free appetizer bread isn’t universal.

Once back at the hotel we took off on a little tour of the city center – Stephen Platz.

Viennesians orient themselves with St. Stephen’s Cathedral because the tallest spire is visible from almost any location in the city. Something I didn’t expect about Vienna is the wind. Vienna sits in a bowl-shaped valley and wind is a constant presence regardless of your location. Once oriented with our north star – St. Stephan’s – we stepped into the cathedral.

Entrance into the cathedral is free – especially during Sunday mass – unless you wish to enter the actual nave, catacombs, towers, or spires. Cathedrals in Europe are generally quiet – despite the bothersome tourists – with locals lighting candles, praying, and general observation of the intricate architecture. For example, there is a staircase the wraps around one of the internal columns, along the railing toads are carved into the stone to symbolize the physical embodiment of evil spirits trying to reach heaven but never making it. The history of St. Stephen’s is extensive, in fact, Mozart’s wedding and funeral were both held here. The catacombs are €6, the smaller tower is €6 to go up an elevator, and the tallest

spire is 343 steps up a spiral staircase is yet another €6 – exhausting but the views are worth it.

Back out into the fresh air, I encountered a market with wooden stalls – usually used for Christmas markets – hugging the west wall of the cathedral. Stalls were selling jewelry, artwork, and food. An abundance of food ranging from bubble waffles, Nutella bretzels, Baumkuchen, chocolate-covered fruit, and bratwurst – of course. We browsed and promised to return before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the night’s planned outing.

European hotels are… different. Definitely a bit of a culture shock, I guess. Bathrooms are always an adventure, the showers usually involve an adjustable shower head on a pole and a small space, the toilet is… different, and there is never counter space. It’s cramped, to say the least. The beds are usually small twins pushed together to make a “queen-sized” bed. There are too many light switches. The curtains aren’t practical – neither blocking out light nor giving privacy. It’s just different.

Anyway, that night we went to the Staatsoper – the opera house – to attend the Ballet with the Vienna philharmonic. To get there we received a 72-hour U-Bahn pass – subway essentially. As a Coloradoan who’s never had experience with public transit beyond school buses for field trips, I found this experience to be a sharp learning curve. You walk into the station, valid your card, check the map, find the right rail, wait for your train, find a seat or bend your knees so you don’t fall over once boarded, pay attention to your stop, and remember it goes by fast so don’t zone out or take a nap.

Prior to leaving for Vienna, we were

given a brief history of Vienna – specifically their opera house. Vienna has a rich culture that is built around key landmarks such as the Staatsoper. Opened in 1869, the opera premiered Don Juan by Mozart with the presence of the Emperor and Empress. After “Anschluss” – annexation of Austria during World War II – Hitler visited the State Opera multiple times. During this time artists were only allowed to perform if they were given direct permission and thereby performing under the Third Reich. In 1945, the building was subject to a bombing raid. Immediately the city of Vienna acted, rebuilt the Staatsoper in the midst of the war, and reopened by the surrender of Nazi Germany.

Entering the theater, all I could think about was Phantom of the Opera – my momma raised me right. The only outliers were a bar and café that served pompous appetizers that make tapas look large. The show itself was comprised of 3 acts with 2 intermissions. The music used wasn’t written with the intention of being used in a ballet. It wasn’t classically Swan Lake but rather a mix between ballet and modern dance. The first piece reminded me of West Side Story, the second had the playfulness of Tom and Jerry, and the last one felt like a larger metaphor recalling themes of genocide.

Leaving around 10 we found our stomachs grumbling and went off to a “hot dog” stand across the street. For

those who don’t know Käsekrainer’s are essentially bratwurst with bits of cheese mixed into the meat. Beware biting or cutting into one because the melted cheese will go flying – I speak from multiple experiences. If you order a “hot dog” you’ll get a bratwurst in a “bun” with ketchup and mustard, whereas if you order a bratwurst you’ll get a bratwurst with a kaisersemmal – sauerkraut is always separate contrary to popular belief. After feasting on a “hot dog” I led everyone home because I’m just that good with directions despite being there for less than 12 hours.

Step Count: 10,135 steps